A common mistake many homeowners and inexperienced contractors make is using too small of a pipe for the flow rate of their pump. Always use the same size pipe, or even larger as the discharge port on the pumps.
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Pipe Size
Gallons Per Hour (GPH) Gallons Per Minute (GPM) 1/2" 480 8 3/4" 900 15 1" 1,500 25 1 1/4" 2,700 45 1 1/2" 3,600 60 2" 5,400 90 3" 13,500 225 4" 21,000 350 6" 42,000 700Head pressure is most often calculated in terms of actual vertical lift - the height water is being lifted. But, for a complete and accurate measurement of Total Dynamic Head Pressure, we have to also add in the Head Pressure or Loss created by the pipe itself. As water passes through pipe, friction reduces flow rate. The diameter and length of pipe can have a significant effect on the Total Dynamic Head Pressure.
Total Dynamic Head Pressure is the feet of Head (vertical rise) added to the friction loss created by the pipe. In most water features with relatively small runs (length of pipe), as long as you use pipe no smaller than the pump's discharge you will be fine. In larger installations with higher flow rates, taller heights and longer runs, the friction loss from the pipe can drastically reduce the flow rate that you may be trying to achieve.
To calculate Total Dynamic Head, add the Head (vertical lift) AND the horizontal Head Loss of the pipe diameter and length of the run.
For example, a 5,400 gph pump pushing water with vertical lift of 6 feet and a distance run of 75 feet would have a Total Dynamic Head of 15.30 Feet with 2" pipe, but would only have 7.35 Feet of Head with 3" pipe.
These days, contractors have a number of great options when it comes to residential plumbing pipe. The industry standard is still copper pipe, as it is strong and compatible with a wide range of fittings and pipes. It's also been around over 70 years and known to simply work by most contractors. Another emerging favorite is PEX tubing, a flexible and durable piping option. The main problem with these plumbing materials are their higher price tag. PVC is a cost-effective and durable option for potable water (Drinking Water).
For this reason, many thrifty contractors and home improvement enthusiasts turn to PVC pipe (product) and CPVC pipe (product) for their home plumbing needs. It is also a great insulator, so outside environments will not affect the heat of water inside the pipe. While many people only use PVC for drainage and cleanouts, it can be the sole piping material in a home when used in conjunction with CPVC. In this article, I will address some of the most common questions about using PVC for potable water.
PVC and CPVC pipe are both designed to withstand damage from virtually all corrosive chemicals and gases. Because of this, they have no problem transporting water over long distances & periods of time. Some people with new piping report water having a "slightly plastic taste," but this taste is not harmful and usually disappears quickly. Using PVC materials for potable / drinking water is not a health risk!
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One possible issue with using PVC or CPVC for potable water is cleanliness. All pipes transporting potable water should be cleaned thoroughly before installation. This is as true with PVC as it is with any other type of pipe. Dust can collect on the inside of pipes while they are in storage or being transported, so a good, thorough clean is necessary if they will be carrying drinking water.
CPVC is a version of PVC that has gone through an extra chlorination process. This extra treatment gives it a higher temperature tolerance. Where standard PVC can only withstand temperatures up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, CPVC will hold strong in temperatures up to 200 degrees. Water heaters are typically set to heat water somewhere between 120 and 140 degrees. Because of this, regular PVC should typically be used just for drainage purposes and not for transporting hot water that could damage it.
CPVC pipe and fittings will have no trouble with hot water. With their higher temperature tolerance, they will not break down unless exposed to an open flame or boiling water. Both PVC and CPVC will insulate from cold weather somewhat effectively, but if water freezes in them, they could crack, so they should not be used for outdoor water lines unless proper exterior insulation is added.
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Most of the major benefits and drawbacks of using PVC or CPVC for potable water have been mentioned above, but I will restate them briefly. As far as the benefits are concerned, PVC pipe and fittings are far cheaper than copper pipe or even PEX flexible piping, which makes them the cost-effective option. Another useful attribute of PVC and CPVC is that they insulate more effectively on their own than copper, because they are not conductors like copper is. PVC will also not corrode due to water content, unlike copper pipes which must be checked often.
Here are a few drawbacks to using PVC or CPVC for potable water. First, PVC materials are not as strong as copper or as flexible as PEX; they float in a middle ground as far as durability and flexibility go. They are also far more susceptible to damage from freezing water than their competitors. PVC and CPVC can crack if their contents freeze, which can lead to unforeseen damages and repairs in colder climates.
Just like the other options available, PVC and CPVC have their drawbacks when it comes to potable water transportation. However, the money saved on materials can make it worth it when working on a budget!
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