Project Design and Steel Construction Features | Suntek Sera

25 Aug.,2025

 

Project Design and Steel Construction Features | Suntek Sera

The greenhouse will be established according to TURKMENISTAN climatic conditions, it is modern and high volume uninterrupted agricultural production greenhouse. With a top height of 7.45 meters with a span of 9.6 meters with a sub-height of 5 meters. Greenhouse systems, which consist of galvanized special function profiles that are shaped according to the requirements in high quality standards, in the rollform forming stations, are completely bolted and modular. In addition to its long life against corrosion, the greenhouse system has been constructed by taking into consideration the European Standard, TS-EN / greenhouse design criteria, which determine the structural design and construction characteristics of the greenhouses.

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In greenhouse interior design and heating systems, we meet the needs of our esteemed investors with our distinguished engineers who are experts in thermodynamics and heat transfer. The greenhouses that we produce are designed in 3D using “structural analysis program” (SAP), and designed in 3D with real size and cross-sectional features; environmental wind loads, snow and rain loads acting on the side and front cover surfaces, roof cover surfaces, plant and accessory loads have been tested by applying distribution loads on carrier and supporting elements.

According to soil structure, the foundation pits of 80-100 cm depths will be opened and column stirrups will have the 50×50 size and 50 cm thickness. Concrete will be poured on the foundation pit in the size of 25×25 cm and 60 cm height. Greenhouse surrounding columns will be connected with concrete beam 30 cm aboveground and the middle column foundations will be strengthened. The anchor profiles to be used are 70×70 in size.

Our columns are designed with 80×80 mm size and 2 mm wall thickness, in order to meet the compressive and tensile stresses, and designed with engineering approach against shear force originating from buckling, bending, plant and wind loads. The regions in which the wall thickness per section is increased is placed symmetrically on the midpoints of the lateral surfaces of the profile so as to continue along the profile. The profile corners are rounded; thus, it is 5 times more resistant to buckling and vertical loads than normal column profiles.

Loads were divided into 5 equal sections on the subheads and column tops and the loads were distributed evenly to the greenhouse columns by using 10 mesh materials. The cross ties  descending from the 2 points of each shear to the column distributes the loads which can be encountered not only in the press but also in the draft evenly.

When designing the shears, plant, fruit and vegetable loads are divided into 5 equal sections and all connections are locked to the load balance points for a balanced distribution of the loads. In this way, the entire greenhouse is in static communication with each other and the greenhouse is able to resist loads as a whole. Shear profiles were chosen as Ø32 mm according to load balance calculations and shading surface calculations.

The profile passing under the shears is made of round pipe profiles in other structures. This element creates difficulties in the installation and isolation of the curtain system. Our profile system under the shears is shaped in oval form; oval profiles in the horizontal plane are more static than round sections; have strength and deflection values. Oval section profile we use is 40×25 in size.

With its innovative engineering design, carrier side and purlin profiles are important carrier profiles that are directly exposed to loads and transfer these loads to the columns. In general, applications, the clip profiles are screwed or welded so that the plastic cover can be mounted on these profiles. In our system, the clips and bearings that can be mounted by attaching the carrier and plastic cover are shaped on the same profile and thus an important innovation and practicality has been achieved.

The lock bearing form has provided a significant installation speed and ease with a considerable economy of manufacturing and assembly labour. Clip bed infrastructure is prepared for fly tulle applications. This method combines all functions with a single profile. The sizes of Purlin profiles are 40 × 50, they are ribbed and pass around the greenhouse in 3 rows and are 2 times more resistant to distortion and buckling than their equivalents.

One of the most important issues in greenhouse is ventilation and proportional humidity. Relative humidity in greenhouses should be 60-70%. Higher relative humidity increases growth and stops root growth. Lower relative humidity is undesirable as it increases evaporation in the greenhouse. Greenhouse windows should have a 40% ventilation opening relative to the floor area for good temperature and humidity control. Therefore, large window sizes are needed. Window profiles must be resistant to wind loads and vibrations as carriers. As in the beam profile, the clamped profile, which is designed as half oval, provides minimum contact from the tangential point to the plastic cover, it is an ideal form with high moment of inertia values and high strength and carrying property. The opening and closing system is made automatically by the motors with reducer suitable for automation.

We have observed that the most important problem with greenhouse windows is distortions and axial shifts of the window handles. As a solution, the window handles were placed every 1.5 meters instead of being placed at 3 meters. The skewing, sliding and bending problems in the windows were solved by placing diagonals from the moment reset points. Half oval window profile is 30×40 in size and 2 m in length.

Wind tensioners are generally made of pipe profiles in conventional greenhouses. At horizontal and non-axial angles, oval profiles have higher tensile and compression values than round profiles. This ideal form allows us to achieve higher strength values. Columns and roof show different resistance to wind loads. In addition to our system, roof trusses are reinforced with roof tensioners against wind loads. Against different wind directions, static rigidity is ensured by strengthening the system with forehead corners, side and inner column tensioners and roof wind tensioners.

Our rain gutters are produced in multi-station roll-form machines to meet the gothic structure loads and make the rainwater discharge smoothly for many years. It is in a unique form that transmits the perspiration water in the greenhouse to the outside of the greenhouse and provides a disease-protected environment for controlled plant production with good humidity control. The opening of our gutters is 50 cm and its deep structure provides high water carrying capacity, its ribbed structure provides high static strength and minimum shade rate.

Polyethylene cover is fastened with special PVC continuous clips that are made of two parts with interlocking after the assembly of construction, special section galvanized clip profiles, self-clip groove, purlin ridge and window profiles manufactured by our company. In addition to ease of installation, these clips provide long cover life and ensure resistance against double wind effects as well as sealing.  Thanks to our clip system, it is possible to inflate the entire surface of the greenhouse with air and provide heat insulation. Our locked clip system provides high protection against wind. Our clip system is widely and safely used by sera manufacturer companies throughout the country.

For proper ventilation, a top ventilation opening is required to ensure that the indoor airflow rate of the greenhouse is emptied and replaced with fresh air within 1 minute. 2.00 m on the top and 2 pieces in width, 4 meters in total. There is a butterfly model ventilation system that provides 40% high ventilation rate. This model enables efficient ventilation and climate control. The friction and power losses are minimized thanks to the specially manufactured hinge system and the shaft bearings.

By means of computer-controlled bi-directional gearmotors with safety limit switches and motion-guided gear gears, the ventilation system is switched on and off by computer automation according to the measurements taken from humidity, heat, wind speed, wind direction and rain sensors.

Clamps connecting the elements in the greenhouse; are moulded in special form and design and this provides modular installation without welding. The connectors are multifunctional, providing several practical functions and speed of installation. The bolts and nuts used are galvanized and all nuts are used with fiber against loosening in vibrations. The bolt group used for connections is made of steel and complies with such bolt norms as DIN-931, DIN-933, DIN-985, DIN-125, DINN and DIN-934. All of our clamps are made of 2 mm galvanized material and radius points have an engineering design that distribute the loads evenly over the connection area and has successfully passed static tests.

Greenhouse Planning Guide: Sizing, Location, and Design - Thrive Lot

Want to build a greenhouse? Here's everything you need to know in 30 seconds:

A greenhouse costs $1,000-$30,000 and takes 2-4 weeks to build. You'll need:

  • 6+ hours of daily sunlight
  • 3 feet of clearance around all sides
  • Proper permits (check local codes)
  • Water and power access

Quick size guide:

Your Need Recommended Size Small garden 6x8 ft Home growing 8x10 ft Small farm 12x20+ ft

Key materials to choose from:

Component Best Option Cost Frame Aluminum $1.50/ft Covering Polycarbonate $1.65/sq ft Base Concrete $3-6/sq ft

Three steps to get started:

  1. Pick a sunny spot with wind protection
  2. Size it right (start small but plan big)
  3. Get permits before building

Want the full details? Keep reading for step-by-step planning, material choices, and expert tips to build your perfect greenhouse.

Picking the Right Spot

Where you put your greenhouse can make or break your plant-growing game. Here's what to think about:

Space Check

Measure your area. You need room for:

  • The greenhouse itself
  • A 3-foot path around it
  • Future expansion
  • Nearby plants to grow without shading

Sunlight Needs

Plants love sun. Here's how to give it to them:

  • Point the long side south or southeast
  • Aim for 6+ hours of direct sun daily
  • Use a sun path chart to track shadows
  • Keep shade sources away:
Object Keep This Far Deciduous trees 25+ feet Evergreen trees 15+ feet Buildings 10+ feet Fences 5+ feet

Weather Protection

Wind can mess with your greenhouse. To protect it:

  • Find natural windbreaks like buildings or trees
  • Plant a hedge or put up a slatted fence 15 feet away
  • Avoid frost pockets in low areas

Access to Water and Power

Make your life easier:

  • Put your greenhouse near water
  • Plan for electricity (fans, lights, heaters)
  • Think about a rain barrel for plant water

Soil and Water Flow

Happy plants need good drainage:

  • Pick a spot with a slight slope (2-5%)
  • Test drainage: Dig a hole, fill with water, see how fast it drains
  • If drainage is bad, you might need to:
    1. Swap clay soil for loam and manure mix
    2. Raise the greenhouse floor
    3. Install drainage pipes around the outside

Getting the Size Right

Picking the right greenhouse size is crucial. Here's how to do it:

Space Needs

Your space needs depend on what you're growing:

  • Leafy greens: 1 sq ft/plant
  • Tomatoes: 1.5-2 sq ft/plant
  • Vines: 4-6 sq ft/plant

For a mix, aim for 1-2 sq ft per plant.

Common Sizes

Size For Use 6x8 ft Urban Seeds, herbs, few small plants 8x10 ft Hobby Diverse flowers and veggies 12x20+ ft Commercial Large-scale production

Most freestanding greenhouses are 30x96 ft. Gutter-connected ones start at 40 ft wide and 10-12 ft long.

Height Matters

For good airflow and plant growth, aim for:

  • Eaves: At least 5 ft, ideally 6 ft
  • Ridge: 2+ ft above eaves

Taller greenhouses (10-14 ft) offer better air movement.

Future-Proofing

New to greenhouse gardening? Start small but plan for growth. A 6x8 ft greenhouse is a good starting point.

Surrounding Space

Don't forget the area around your greenhouse:

  • 3 ft path around the structure
  • Room for expansion
  • Avoid shade from nearby plants

Building Materials and Structure

Your greenhouse's success hinges on smart material choices. Let's break it down:

Base Types

You need a solid foundation. Here's the rundown:

Base Type Pros Cons Concrete slab Tough as nails, low upkeep Pricey, permanent Wooden base Budget-friendly, adaptable Regular maintenance needed Perimeter base Versatile, quick to set up Not as robust as full slab

For small greenhouses (under 120 sq. ft.), 4" x 4" or 4" x 6" pressure-treated wood does the job. Bigger? Go for 6" x 6" beams or 8" x 8" timbers.

"Pick wood that's good for underground use." - Laurie Neverman, Author and Homesteader

Frame Materials

Your greenhouse's backbone matters. Here's how they stack up:

Material Durability Cost Weight Wood So-so Cheap Heavy Aluminum Tough Middle ground Light Galvanized steel Beast mode Expensive Heavy PVC Fragile Dirt cheap Featherweight

Aluminum's popular for good reason. But galvanized steel? It's a tank:

  • Handles 360kg of snow per square meter (aluminum taps out at 70kg)
  • Stands up to 63 mph winds

Cover Materials

The cover's your greenhouse's skin. Here are your options:

Material Light Transmission Durability Insulation Single-pane glass Good Tough Meh Double-pane glass Good Tough Nice Polycarbonate Okay Decent Nice Acrylic Great Decent Nice ETFE Top-notch Tough Nice

Glass? Scratch-resistant and long-lasting, but inflexible. Plastic options like polycarbonate? More forgiving, but you'll replace them every 5-10 years.

Temperature Control

Keeping your greenhouse at the right temperature is crucial. Here's how to manage airflow and temperature:

Air Flow Systems

Good air circulation is a must. Here's what you need:

  • Natural ventilation: Roof vents and side openings. Cheap but less precise.
  • Forced ventilation: Exhaust fans and intake shutters for bigger greenhouses. Size fans to change all air once per minute.
  • HAF fans: Keep air moving and reduce temperature pockets.

"Every greenhouse needs a circulating fan for fresh air and even temperatures", says Laurie Neverman, homesteader and greenhouse expert.

Heat and Cooling

Balancing warmth and coolness can be tricky:

Heating options:

Method Best for Notes Small electric heater Moderate climates Keeps greenhouse above freezing Propane/natural gas heater Larger spaces, cold areas Calculate BTUs based on size and climate Solar panels Warm climates Have a backup for cloudy days Black water barrels Passive heat storage Cheap and effective

Cooling techniques:

  • Shade cloth: Blocks 10-100% of light
  • Wet walls: Fans blow air over wet pads (great for dry climates)
  • Evaporative coolers: Also called swamp coolers

Smart thermostats can manage vents, fans, and heaters automatically for precise control.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Steel Greenhouse Pipe.

"It's easier to heat a greenhouse than cool it down, so plan early", advises John Smith, greenhouse designer at GrowSpace Solutions.

Most plants like it between 60-75°F (15-24°C). Adjust based on what you're growing and your local climate.

Green Building Methods

Want to build an eco-friendly greenhouse? It's not just about growing plants. It's about making smart choices that cut your environmental impact. Here's how:

Saving Energy

Cutting energy use is crucial. Try these:

  1. Face South: In the Northern Hemisphere, point your greenhouse south. It's simple but effective.

"Face your greenhouse about 15 degrees east of South. It'll soak up morning light and heat", says Rob Avis, greenhouse designer.

  1. Insulate Smart: Insulate walls you don't need for light. It keeps heat in and costs down.
Wall Insulation North Full East/West Partial South None
  1. Store Heat: Use materials that soak up heat by day and release it at night. It keeps temperatures steady.

"Stack water drums in your greenhouse. It's a cheap way to store heat", suggests Lindsey Schiller of Ceres Greenhouse Solutions.

  1. Go Solar: Power your greenhouse with solar panels. They're getting cheaper and more efficient.

Water Use

Smart water use is key. Here's how:

  1. Catch Rain: Collect rainwater from your roof. Use gutters and tanks.
  2. Drip, Don't Spray: Use drip irrigation. It waters roots directly, saving water and helping plants.
  3. Recycle Water: Set up a system to reuse water. It cuts waste and costs.
  4. Get Smart: Use sensors to check soil moisture. Water only when needed.
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Inside Layout

Let's talk about setting up your greenhouse interior. We'll cover work areas, plant spaces, and storage spots.

Work Areas

A smart work area setup can make your gardening life easier:

  • Put your potting bench near the door. It keeps dirt from spreading everywhere.
  • Leave enough room to move around. Aim for paths at least 2 feet wide.
  • Keep your work area close to water and power. Trust me, you'll thank yourself later.

Plant Spaces

How you arrange your plants can make or break their growth. Here's what works:

  • Go for a U-shaped bench layout along the walls. It gives you tons of growing space and easy access.
  • In a 6x8' greenhouse? Two 68-inch long, 22-inch wide benches along the sides should do the trick.
  • Got an 8x12' greenhouse? Try an 8-foot bench for the back wall and a 9-foot one for the side.
  • Bench height is personal. Some folks like 28 inches, others go for 34 inches. Pick what feels right for you.

"We made our bench fit snug inside the greenhouse base. We screwed it to the walls to keep it steady." - A happy greenhouse owner

Storage Areas

Keep your stuff organized:

  • Use the space under benches. It's prime real estate for storage.
  • Wall shelves are great for small items.
  • Hang tools on pegboards. It saves floor space and looks neat.

Rules and Permits

Building a greenhouse isn't just about location and materials. You need to follow local rules too. Here's what you need to know about regulations and permits:

Local Rules

Before you start:

  1. Contact your city or county zoning office
  2. Ask about greenhouse-specific rules
  3. Find out about size and height limits
  4. Check property line restrictions

Rules vary by location. Small hobby greenhouses might not need permits, but larger or commercial ones often do.

Don't forget: If you have an HOA, check their rules too. Some have strict guidelines about outbuildings, including greenhouses.

Getting Permits

You might need permits. Here's a quick guide:

Permit Type Purpose When Needed Zoning Permit Fits community rules Almost always Building Permit Checks safety and structure Larger or permanent greenhouses

To get permits:

  1. Visit your local permit office
  2. Bring your greenhouse plans
  3. Be ready to pay fees
  4. Ask about required inspections

Some areas might need extra permits for land use changes or water flow alterations.

Why bother with permits? They keep you and your neighbors safe, help avoid costly mistakes, and can save you trouble if you sell your property later.

Cost Planning

Let's break down the key costs for your greenhouse project:

Material Prices

Your choice of materials will impact your overall expenses. Here's a quick look at average costs:

Component Material Cost (per sq ft/linear ft) Frame Wood $1.00 PVC $1.25 Aluminum $1.50 Steel $2.50 Glazing Polyethylene film $0.20 Polycarbonate panels $1.65 Glass panels $2.60 Flooring Rubber mats $2.00 Concrete $3.00 - $6.00

Want to save big on glazing? Use polyethylene film or polycarbonate panels instead of glass. You'll cut costs by 80-90%.

Work Costs

Labor can eat up about 40% of your budget. Here's what you might pay:

Project Size DIY Cost Range Professional Install Cost Range Small (100-300 sq ft) $1,000 - $3,000 $1,500 - $4,500 Medium (300-1,000 sq ft) $7,500 - $15,000 $12,500 - $30,000 Large (1,000+ sq ft) $50,000 - $90,000 $70,000 - $130,000

These are averages. Your actual costs may vary based on location, design, and features.

Want to save on labor? Go DIY for smaller greenhouses. For a 300 sq ft greenhouse, you could pocket up to $1,500.

Don't forget these extra costs:

  • Permits: $100 - $600
  • Site prep: $500 - $5,000 (size-dependent)
  • Heating and cooling systems
  • Irrigation setup

Getting Help

Need a hand with your greenhouse project? No worries. Here's how to get expert help:

Thrive Lot Support

Thrive Lot is your go-to for greenhouse expertise. They offer:

  • Custom designs
  • Installation
  • Maintenance
  • Ecological assessments
  • Expert consultations

They'll help you create a greenhouse that's both sustainable and beautiful.

Greenhouse Consultants

Want a pro to guide you? Greenhouse consultants are like architects for your project. Solar Innovations, Inc. offers:

  • Questionnaires to understand your needs
  • Site surveys with sun studies
  • Custom designs

Reach out to them at or 800-618-.

Environmental Consultants

Worried about regulations? Environmental consultants like RMA can help. Here's what they might charge:

Service Cost Range Environmental Audits $4,000 - $10,000+ Air Quality Permitting $1,500 - $45,000+ Sustainability Services $1,500 - $35,000+

DIY Resources

Prefer to do it yourself? Check out:

  • The Home Depot: Guides, tool rentals, and material delivery
  • Millcreek Gardens: Staff with greenhouse know-how
  • Green Houses Etc.: Custom designs and FREE estimates

Wrap-Up

Key Steps for Your Greenhouse

When planning your greenhouse, focus on these essentials:

  • Location: Pick a sunny spot with weather protection. Remember: "West is Best" and "East is Easy" for orientation.
  • Size: Go bigger than you think. Many wish they had.
  • Materials: Choose strong stuff like extruded aluminum and polycarbonate panels.
  • Climate Control: Plan for good ventilation, heating, and cooling.
  • Foundation: Make it sturdy and level to avoid problems.

Getting Started

Ready to build? Here's how:

1. Check Your Space

Measure your area. Think about future plans. Most greenhouses are 8, 10, or 12 feet wide.

2. Budget It Out

Project Type Cost Range DIY Up to $3,500 Pro Install $5,000 - $20,000

3. Know the Rules

Ask about local zoning and permits before you start.

4. Plan Your Layout

Sketch out work areas, plant spaces, and storage.

5. Get Your Stuff

Buy materials that fit your needs and budget.

6. Build It

Start with the foundation, then frame and cover. Not a DIY pro? Get help.

FAQs

How to create a sustainable greenhouse?

Want to build a greenhouse that's good for the planet? Here's how:

  1. Pick a sunny spot. East-west orientation is best.
  2. Design smart. Use natural resources wisely.
  3. Go green with materials. Think recycled or renewable.
  4. Save water. Collect rainwater or reuse greywater.
  5. Cut energy use. Solar panels can help.
  6. Farm smart. Use low-till methods and careful pest control.

Do these, and you'll have a greenhouse that grows well and treads lightly.

What are the disadvantages of passive solar greenhouses?

Passive solar greenhouses are eco-friendly, but they're not perfect. Here's what you need to know:

Drawback What it means Weather dependent You're at Mother Nature's mercy Can get too hot You'll need to manage airflow and shade Pricey upfront Special design and materials cost more Not great for big farms Better suited for smaller operations Heat storage is tricky Keeping warmth for night use is tough

These issues can make passive solar greenhouses a bit of a handful, especially if you're new to greenhouse growing or live somewhere with wild weather.

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