By Margaret Evans
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Fundamental to owning horses is the fencing used to contain them. In times past, the options were simply wooden boards or barbed wire, both of which are still used in many areas across Canada.
Today there are many safe and durable options for containing horses, and horse owners can select their preferences in structure, design, materials, colour, and visibility. Fencing is all about function, and function is dictated by the intended purpose, depending on whether you are running a boarding barn, breeding barn, training facility, or a family acreage with a few ponies for the children.
Boards placed on the outside of the posts make for a weaker fence. The horse will push the boards out as he rubs on the fence or reaches through it. Photo: Shutterstock/Chloe
Planning Your Fencing
To start planning your fence, take a walk around your property, giving specific consideration to how and where your horses will be contained, their access to shade and water, the efficiency and safety of the area, and your need to access them on a day-to-day basis.
Make a checklist of items that can help both you and your installer decide on the best plan of action. A fencing expert will be able to offer suggestions for the most effective materials and cost savings, including things you may not have thought of. Here are a few:
The answers to these questions will help you calculate a budget. Fencing for horses is an essential part of any horse farm or acreage but skimping to save a few bucks could lead to horses getting injured or loose, repairs, and added maintenance.
Related: Working Your Horse Property Plan
Horses test fence strength regularly, so fencing needs to be sturdy and clearly visible. They are flight animals and fear of something can send them running first and thinking later. That instinctive behaviour dictates the kind of fencing material to use and where it should be placed, keeping safety uppermost in mind. For example, if a fenceline is placed in a shaded area, an obscured area where it is concealed by bush, or at the bottom of a slope, a running horse may not see it until the last moment and may crash into it.
This fence lacks visibility, and dead trees that may blow down over the fence should be removed.
For fencing, think big, bold, and high. Be sure that the fencing does not allow a horse to put its head through the gaps to snack on grass on the other side and become stuck. Horses always seem to think the grass just out of reach is better than what is in front of them!
In looking at fence design, consider the clearance from the bottom board or wire to the ground. A higher clearance means a foal or miniature horse could slip underneath, or children and dogs could crawl into the pasture.
Laura Kenney, extension educator for equine at Pennsylvania State University, recommends that fences should be installed at a height equal to the height of your horse’s eyes with his head up, about five feet or better. Draft horses might need something higher, and stallions should have fencing at least six feet high. Plan your fencing around your tallest horse.
Related: The Basics of Horse Pasture Management
In the planning stage, remember that horses are herd animals, with a pecking order which can sometimes have harsh repercussions. A subordinate horse might panic if trapped by a dominant animal in a tight corner of the pasture. Where possible, choose rounded corners rather than hard 90-degree angles. A rounded corner or a curved fenceline makes for an easier escape route for a trapped horse. If horses are being separated into different paddocks or turnouts that share a fenceline, the safest option is a double fence separation between them to prevent horses interacting with each other over the fence. Another option is to place a strand of electric wire across the top of all shared fencelines.
All pastures have gates, and ideally more than one. Decide the size of each gate and have one that is wide enough to comfortably drive a vehicle or your farm equipment through. Gates should have a straight approach and be placed where horses won’t gather and get stuck when you are opening it.
Barbed wire can cause catastrophic injuries and should not be used for horses. Photo: Dreamstime/Volga
If you plan on various paddocks or turnout areas with double fence separation, you may prefer to have two swing gates opposite each other. By opening the two, you can create a quick, directed pathway from one paddock to another when moving horses around.
Fence off power line guy-wires, wet or marshy areas, streams, ponds, trees unless they provide valuable shade, or any area that is either environmentally sensitive, structurally at risk, or where a horse can do itself harm.
Perimeter Fencing
The perimeter fence is a strong, visible fence around the boundary of the area designated for horses. It will provide additional safety and security for your horses and your property.
“Many customers choose a 2x4-inch knotted mesh for the perimeter fence,” says John Ferris, co-owner of Ferris Fencing with his wife, Lesley, in Qualicum Beach, BC. “Then you have considerably better safety for the horse, keep small pets in, and keep neighbourhood dogs and predators out. [You can] manage your pasture areas with portable electric fencing so that, by moving the portable fences, areas can be rested, machines have access to remedy problems or cut hay, or you can designate your areas for drier land in the winter and allow access to the wetter land in the summer.”
Related: Muddy Horse Paddock Footing Fixes
Knotted 2x4-inch mesh fencing is often used for large areas on farms and ranches, and is both efficient and reasonably economical. Cost will depend on the class of galvanized wire with class #1 being the standard grade while class #3, according to Lesley Ferris, is best and will outlast the standard grade by six times.
Plan gate locations with a straight approach, with ease of movement of animals and equipment in mind. This galvanized continuous farm and ranch fence from CF Fence is strong and durable, does not require maintenance, and is a popular option for large pastures. Photo: CF Fence
“My advice when recommending fencing to the customer is to first determine the primary use of the fencing,” says Lindsay Sears with 2W Livestock Equipment in Nanton, Alberta. “Is it for horses, cattle, both, or is it just perimeter fencing?” The next step is to determine the terrain that will be fenced. “Terrain is a determining factor when considering what type of fence you can have,” she says. “Then, we determine their budget and lastly provide a layout of the fencing to give them an idea of what it will look like.”
Fence Posts
Many years ago, I looked after a Welsh Mountain pony named Billy, whose owner ran a store. Every Sunday, Billy spent time at his owner’s home and was turned out in a tiny pasture adjacent to a little field. The fence boards were firmly nailed to the posts and the gate was shut, but he always mysteriously managed to get into the field. We eventually realized that he had learned to lower himself and literally shimmy under the bottom board at one particular section of the fence. The fence post was loose in its hole and as he pushed forward the post rose up, the board slid over his back, and he could move into the field. After he was through, the post dropped back into its hole and the fenceline resumed its normal profile. Once Billy’s trick was discovered, a quick concrete job fixed that problem.
Fence posts of the proper size, correctly installed, are the foundation of any fencing project. When in doubt, always go larger, and securely fix them in the ground.
“When considering your fence posts, weigh your options by asking yourself some basic questions,” suggests John Ferris. “What will the post be used for? Is it going to be a permanent fixture, or will it be stored away in the barn when the grazing/growing season is over? What type of post can be installed in the ground you are dealing with? What are your maintenance expectations? As a rule of thumb, always use posts which are at least one foot longer for corners, gates, brace posts, and end posts.”
John Ferris recommends that, when placing a post is difficult because of rock, boulders, or severe hardpans, use a pneumatic drill to chip away at the substrate, keeping the hole as close to the diameter of the post as possible so that it can lock into the ground. Do not use smaller posts as they may snap off at ground level. A metal post could compensate if a wooden one is difficult, and he recommends a 3.5-inch diameter schedule 40 tube. Light duty steel could flex. Alternatively, of course, is to reposition the fence away from difficult areas.
John Ferris advises horse owners to give their animals as much room as possible, with access to grazing, and to use portable electric fencing for good pasture management. The portable fence can be moved to allow areas to be rested, which prevents overgrazing, and makes for happier horses with access to fresh pasture on a regular basis.
Types of Fencing
Wooden board fencing has long been a traditional form of fencing. Wood board, usually 2x6-inch wood planks, is safe for horses and can be treated, painted, or stained to extend its life. Untreated wood will fade and weather conditions will cause it to weaken and splinter. In addition, horses tend to have a habit of chewing and rubbing on wooden fences and eventually breaking them.
Construct the fence so that it is smooth on the horse side. Rails and wire mesh should be placed on the inside of the posts for a stronger fence. If horses push against it, they will not push the fasteners outward so that they pop away from the posts.
Related: How to Make Rotational Grazing Work on Your Horse Farm
“Consider function,” says Dwayne Job with System Equine in Rockwood, Ontario. “How do you want your fence to perform? Do you want it to be very safe? Is it going to keep predators out? Does it have to keep foals in?”
Newborn foals, weanlings, and yearlings are particularly rambunctious and will run, jump, and play regardless of fence line. If the paddock is to be used for broodmares, it needs to be large enough to safely contain young horses with plenty of space to spare.
Job stresses the need to know how much work a property owner is willing to do after the fence is installed.
Flex fencing consists of flexible polyethylene strips tensioned between posts, and installs on the posts with a bracket which allows the fence to flex on impact if an animal hits the fence. Bottom strands of electric braid keep horses from grazing through the bottom of the fence and deter small animals from entering the field. Photo: System Equine
“The difference between a good fence and a bad fence is one vet bill,” he says.
At System Equine, flex fencing is the top seller. It is very low maintenance and very safe for animals.
Flex fencing is vinyl fencing that comes in flexible polyethylene strips tensioned between posts. The fence usually consists of a wire or multiple wires bound by vinyl of varying widths and in varying colours. Flex fencing is highly popular and widely used because it is low maintenance with the exception of occasional retightening, looks pleasing to the eye, is stronger and more durable than wood, and does not need painting.
“It installs on the posts with a bracket,” says Job. “The bracket allows the fence to flex on impact so that if an animal hits the fencing it will give and come back. Flex has a 30-year warranty on the rail, and it can be re-tightened if it looks slack.”
In addition, he recommends to all his clients that they also install electric wiring on the fencing in order to contain horses.
Traditional hardwood fencing is a beautiful option. Photo: System Equine
“It protects the investment, keeps the horses off the fencing, and keeps horses from getting hurt. Electric is very safe to use and operate. It is set up to ‘pulse’ instead of a constant zapping. Horses get a zap and move away from the fencing.”
For some time, white vinyl fencing has been really popular, and it always looks attractive. But other products are also moving up the popularity scale.
“Coloured fence, i.e., black, brown, or tan in the vinyls and electric fence polywires and tapes are giving the traditional white fence a run for its money,” says John Ferris. “Vinyl post and rail, polyethylene covered wire, and monofilaments have now been available for quite a few years. [Now there is] the availability of good tensioners, proper electric fence insulators designed for wire or tape, and innovations for the gate crossing with electric bungee cord, which allows the gates to be opened and closed eliminating dropping the handle and hotwire onto the ground creating shocks.”
Related: Planning Your Horse's Run-In Shed
John Ferris says that single covered brace wires eliminate that dangerous loop and exposure of bare wire to the animal. In addition, today’s technology with electric fence testers, analyzers, signal lights, and alerts assist the horse owner with monitoring the system and receive an alert when there is a problem. Electric fence controllers have the ability to operate on 110-volt plug-in, 12-volt battery and can come with solar compatibility.
“Electric fence is very much in demand,” says John Ferris. “Not only do customers want to protect their livestock but they also want to protect their existing fences from being wrecked by livestock. Electric fence is a clean and environmentally desirable fence. There is no leach-out from paint, and animals will not chew it so there are no chips, shards, or other hazards created. It is used to protect watercourses in pastures and is easily installed on plastic posts which do not rot, corrode, or pollute.”
Strong, solid fence posts with diamond mesh to keep predators out and prevent horses and other animals from stepping through or walking up the fence. Photo: iStock/Volgariver
John Ferris stresses the need for the horse owner to be diligent and keep the fence “hot” at all times. If the fence is working at the proper voltage it will ensure a high degree of safety for livestock as well as deter predators.
Electric fencing is increasingly popular and, in Drummondville, Quebec, HorseGuard Canada markets an electric ribbon. Rather than a conventional wire, the 4-centimetre ribbon is an effective visual deterrent for horses.
“In Europe, most (if not all) horse fencing is done with electric tape,” says Sandrine Lecacheur. “Horse owners consider it the safest and most secure of all fences.”
Lecacheur’s father, Serge Lecacheur, developed his tape fence in France in and introduced his product into Canada in . The tape consists of 10 stainless steel wires each .4 millimetres in diameter on a 4-centimetre wide ribbon. It has proven to be durable in extreme weather conditions and it can be permanently or temporarily installed, and added to an existing fence.
The HorseGuard system does not need a ground rod. Its bi-polar conductivity is maintained due to the positive and negative lines incorporated into the ribbon so that it can be used reliably in a wide range of elements from icy and snowy soils to compact, rocky, or very dry soils.
Continuous fence panels are sturdy enough for horses and cattle, and make excellent perimeter fencing for acreages, says Lindsay Sears of 2W Livestock Equipment. Photo: 2W Livestock Equipment
In British Columbia’s Okanagan wine country, CF Fence based in Oliver is contracted to do a lot of vineyards as well as farms and ranches. In addition to erecting 8-foot deer fencing, the company offers 5-foot field fences as well as 5-foot non-climb horse fencing, both with a galvanized pipe top rail to finish off. The non-climb horse fence consists of a 2x4-inch wire fence that is 4 feet or 5 feet high.
“With the non-climb fence, the horse can’t put a hoof through it,” says owner Alan Cossentine. “A person can’t climb it.”
They also offer a popular galvanized continuous fence.
Related: Planning Your Horse's Run-In Shed
“The continuous fence appeals to most customers,” says Cossentine. “It is costly, but it is a one-time investment. We tell our customers that you don’t have to build it all at once but that it can be built in stages.”
The galvanized pipe comes in 21-foot lengths with one end of the rail swedged so that it can fit into the full end of the next pipe. Rails are welded in place using ripple pipe uprights. Continuous fencing is ideal for paddocks and especially for larger pastures. Cossentine, who is also a cattle rancher, says that while it is a bigger investment initially, it is superior to wood, does not need painting, can withstand the ravages of weather and the chewing habits of livestock, and still look great year after year.
Electric fence protects livestock while also protecting the fence itself from damage by livestock. To be safe and effective, electric fencing must be working at the proper voltage at all times. Photo: Ferris Fencing
“You need fencing that is safe for the animals, user friendly, and functional,” he says. For horse owners contemplating a fencing project, his best advice is to design and build it right the first time, and don’t cut corners.
You will get efficient and thoughtful service from Aobiao.
Lindsay Sears agrees.
“Our most popular style of fencing right now is the continuous fence panels,” she says. “They are a great multipurpose panel. They are sturdy enough for horses and cattle, plus they make for great acreage perimeter fencing.”
Sears points out, however, that the biggest change in recent years has been the rising cost of steel, which has increased the cost of fencing products. To keep costs down, detailed planning for the fencing project is essential.
Sears says that the biggest stress on fencing to consider is how much pressure will be placed on it. That will be set by the type of livestock you keep, or the animals your neighbour keeps.
HorseGuard Canada’s electric ribbon consists of 10 stainless steel wires on a 4-centimetre wide ribbon. Photos: HorseGuard Canada
“If it is a zero-pressure perimeter fence, it can be a lightweight panel,” she says. “If it’s for livestock, it needs to be a heavier, stronger panel.”
While horses generally learn their containment restrictions and respect them, it can be different for cows. My neighbour’s Aberdeen Angus calves frequently broke through the wire fenceline by simply barging their way through with a butt-head approach. New fence posts and tighter page wire were needed to contain them.
When discussing fencing options for horses, barbed wire must be addressed. In many parts of the country, barbed wire is still used for horse containment but, of all fencing, it is the least suitable for horses since it places them at high risk of injury. Barbed wire can cause deep and jagged wounds and a panicking horse with a foot caught in barbed wire can do fatal damage to itself. Barbed wire is still found on large fenced areas where it has likely been in place for decades and never changed.
To lessen the impact of barbed wire, replace the top wire with wooden planks nailed in place on the inside of the fence line. In addition, electric wire can be installed. Raise the bottom strands sufficiently up from the ground so that a pawing hoof doesn’t get caught. As long as the fence is highly visible, allowing weeds, vines, and low bushes to grow up through the wire will deter horses from grazing around the fence.
Environmental Challenges
Whatever the fencing material, it is subject in varying degrees to a barrage of environmental impacts including rain, hail, frost, snow, ice, heat, cold, wind, as well as horses and other livestock leaning and rubbing on it, and wildlife trying to move through it.
Safe, strong fencing is a sound investment in your horse and property. Photo: System Equine
“One environmental impact is frost heaving of the posts,” says Job. “Make sure to push them back down in the spring. Check your fences a couple of times a year. Make sure nails are nailed back in and not sticking out and that brackets are secure, the fence is tight, and wire fence staples are put back in.”
When winter temperatures drop, fences can become brittle, which can lead to cracking and breaking. Some fences might expand or warp in hot temperatures and that, too, can pull boards off posts or their fasteners. Check with your installer that fencing materials have been engineered to withstand today’s temperature ranges.
Sunshine can also degrade wood fencing through fading and drying out, causing wood to become more brittle. Fences that can withstand strong sunlight and UV rays are vinyl fences containing titanium dioxide, which prevents ultraviolet rays degrading the material. Snow, ice, sleet, and rain and other forms of moisture can lead to mold, mildew, and rot. Weight from snow and ice can be an issue when it piles up on posts or ice storms encase fencing in thick ice sheets. Hail, too, can target wood board fences and wind storms will put pressure on all structures.
Given climate change, considerations about weather events in your region should be taken into account. Most materials are designed to withstand the normal range of elements, but we are seeing extremes of all types of weather more frequently and those events place stresses on all structures leading to more frequent maintenance jobs or complete replacement needs. Wood is particularly vulnerable while vinyl, aluminum, and steel piping are more capable of withstanding extreme weather including corrosion, rust, mold, sagging, breaking, and discolouring.
Safe, reliable fencing requires professional installation, but will be a valuable investment in protecting your horses and safeguarding your property.
Related: 50 Ideas for Improving Your Horse Property
Related: Horse Pasture Renovation
More by Margaret Evans
Main article photo: Shutterstock/Anne Kitzman
Whether you’ve just moved to a new horse property, or you want to fence a new section, or add some cross-fencing, or you’ve got challenging terrain to fence – we’ve got you covered! I’ve gathered together some of the best fencing ideas for you to peruse, along with my personal opinion on barbed wire and Bayco elastic fencing.
First of all, I watched an excellent presentation by an experienced Veterinarian, Dr. Geoff Tucker, who’s been to many different farms and barns. Geoff has then collected photos of some of the do’s and don’ts we can apply to our properties, barns and fencing. In this post, I’m going to focus on the fencing options as this is something I’ve been experimenting with lately.
If you want the full barn safety info (and it’s excellent – based on decades of experience with thousands of clients), then start watching Geoff’s video here at 5 minutes (the beginning is just intro).
For now, I’m going to show you some of the best fencing options that I screenshot from this video:
In this photo you can see the boards are on the inside of the fence posts – keeping a smooth surface against the horse (prevents them banging/hooking a shoulder on a post). This also makes the fence stronger as the board will not pop out when a horse leans or rubs hard on it. Note the bottom board is far enough from the ground that if a horse lays down next to the fence, their legs will not get stuck when they try to get up.
However, as Dr. Tucker points out, this distance is too high to be safe for a foal, who could roll under and get up on the other side of the fence – separated from mum! Also note the buffer alley in between paddocks (handy for manure and hay carts too!). A lot of fence damage is done by horses trying to get at each other – for reasons of play, aggression, or in heat.
Dr. Tucker says this diamond mesh is very tough and he’s never seen a horse that can break through it, nor has he ever seen one caught up in it. Note the boards are on the inside of the fence posts – keeping a smooth surface against the horse (prevents them damaging a shoulder on a post). This also makes the fence stronger as the board will not pop off when a horse leans or rubs hard on it. Likewise, the diamond mesh is also afixed to the inside of the fence.
This is Dr. Tucker’s favorite fence and was used for Secretariat. He also points out that the corners are rounded off (no square corners) so a horse can’t get trapped there by another horse. The corners have 3 boards, but the straight sections only require a single board at the top. Not only does this improve the strength of the fence, it also takes care of the visibility issue (wire fences are hard to see in certain light conditions or when the horse is in a panic).
Here’s a vinyl fence with electric wires running along the inside of the boards. Dr. Tucker likes this fence because if the horse runs into it, he’s just going to bounce off. Again, boards should always be on the inside of fence posts, so horses can’t pop the boards off easily.
Another fencing option that Dr. Tucker likes is welded metal pipe fencing – a cheaper option if you live in an area with an oil/gas industry that generates cheap surplus pipe. If you don’t, and you have to buy steel railings or posts from a fence company, then it is a very expensive fencing option.
Now let’s get into a thorny issue. We all know that barbed wire is not a good fencing option for horses. However, some people have a line of barbed wire fencing because they share a field with cows. Or, they are boarding their horses on someone else’s property.
I recently read a great article on barbed wire and the Comments underneath the post are as good as the article – especially the one where a horse ran into the wood fence on one side, then into the barb wire fence on the other… (spoiler alert: The wood did more damage). So if you currently have some barbed wire fencing, take some time to read through this article and the comments. I’m not going to repeat anything here, because it’s just that good!
I will say that I had 3 horses and 2 foals in a well-maintained (no loose wires) barbed wire field for 10 years in Alberta and not one of them sustained an injury. In my current place (I’m boarding) there was a mix of barbed wire, high tensile steel wire, and board fence. The only injury incurred in the last six years was with the smooth steel wire; which my then 2-year-old colt (Montaro) used to slice off the back of his heel (it has a 3,000 lb break weight) requiring surgery and a $450 vet bill.
Ironically, we used the smooth steel wire in that spot to keep them away from the rotting wood fence, as the tenant didn’t want barbed wire used on that fence line. Personally, I think that if the wire had been barbed, Montaro would not have stuck his foot through. All the horses figured out pretty quickly that barbed wire hurts and they stay away from it for anything vigorous. For minor activities, like leaning against it, they don’t care:
My semi-feral and wild horses go right through blackberry bushes too! I routinely check their faces for embedded blackberry barbs and pull them out. And the younger horses have minor rips all over the place (they also spar quite a bit). My domestic horse won’t touch barbed wire or blackberry bushes.
I also used the high tensile smooth steel wire in a corner of the paddock area, since I’d heard it was a good alternative to barbed wire. Again, if you’re boarding on someone else’s property, or money is really tight, you can’t always implement the ideal. Having had no experience with smooth steel wire, I thought I’d test it:
After observing the horses for several months, I would not use this kind of fencing again! I’m not saying that barbed wire is necessarily better, but at least they realize barb wire hurts and stay away from it. With this smooth steel wire, they play with it! Having no idea that it can slice through flesh; they rub on it with their head and necks, they stomp on it with their feet, they push against it. Apparently vets have seen many serious injuries from high tensile steel wire.
And if the horse happens to run into it, this wire is not going to break – it’s just going to slice through the horse’s flesh. Here’s what happened in a wind storm when a few trees fell on it. The wire loosened (even more fun to play with!) but did not break:
I have since also covered over this steel wire with a length of mesh fence. Yes, it’s more expensive, but cheaper than another vet bill or two!
However, the main problem with any kind of single-strand wire fence is not what the horse does when they’re conscious, but what they do when they are being chased by coyotes, or in a fight, or otherwise frightened. As Dr. Geoff Tucker says:
“The reason we use cowhides, is because it’s tough. I’ve seen cows go right through barbed wire, leaving [only] little tufts of hair, and the wire is in shambles. But as soon as the horse goes through barbed wire, it’s a meat cutter and it’s no good, and it should be outlawed for every horse.”
So on the high tensile steel fence line where my colt sliced his foot, I put up 2×4 inch wire mesh, on the pasture side, covering up the steel wire and the wooden fence. They lean right over the top of it to get to the grass lawn on the other side, but so far it is holding up well and no injuries! The wooden posts on this line are sunk into concrete – otherwise, they would no doubt just push the whole fence over. I didn’t know about diamond mesh when I used this 2×4″ mesh, otherwise I would have used that instead. This size mesh is fine for adult horses, but a young foal could get a hoof stuck in this:
And here’s another consideration for those of us in wet, rainy climates. Even if you use treated posts, your fence posts (and boards) can rot in 15-20 years and need to be replaced. The only type of fence you could use in this climate that would never have to be re-done is steel posts, sunk in concrete. However, treated wood posts sunk in concrete with a combination board (even just 1 board) and diamond mesh fence should last at least 30 years.
If you already have barbed wire, or high tensile steel wire up, you could even just place the diamond mesh over top of the existing wire. If you don’t have cows to contend with on the other side though, then you may want to remove the barbed wire, to prevent your horses getting little tears from it.
Now, having said all of the above, I attended a workshop with trainer/filmmaker Elsa Sinclair and she told me about an intriguing new elastic fencing option called Finishline Fencing. This fencing material is produced by a company called Bayco. So you may also see if advertised as Bayco elastic fencing. Although these stretchy strands have a break-weight of lbs, they are also designed to stretch/give 20%. So even foals who have gone completely through the fencing are unharmed and just come back in through the strands which stretch out of the way!
I figured this fencing would be great for me to use in the wooded areas of my pasture, where trees and branches fall on the fence all the time; either taking out the fence line, or making the use of electric wire impossible. Here’s the picture that convinced me this elastic fence could actually work in my forested areas:
So four years ago, I decided to fence about 10 acres at the back using this new elastic fenceline material. Since this area is densely forested and home to lots of wildlife, I decided to see if an ‘organic’ curvy fenceline would work; rather than just straight lines, which would require a lot of tree-cutting.
Let me show you the challenges that resulted from both using this elastic wire/line and not having poker straight fencelines!
When you have a curvy fenceline, and then you tighten up the lines on it, the tension is not even. This sounds obvious, I know, but we thought we could counter the pull by moving the line to the other side of the posts where needed, to offset the tension. Nope. Maybe if you lived in a dry climate and your ground was rock hard for your posts, that might work. But in our rainy Pacific Northwest/UK type climate, our posts just could not withstand the torque. So we had to add bracing at all vulnerable spots:
As you can see, we had to add a lot of bracing to make up for the all the points of torque threatening to pull the fence posts over. But due to the posts not being in a perfectly straight line, we also couldn’t tension up with lines the way you’re supposed to. Which created more issues…
Since we couldn’t fully tension up the lines, our lines were looser than recommended – which the horses quickly discovered. Montaro and Juno figured out how to go through the fence, graze or forage on the other side and then come back in whenever they pleased! Here’s one of the spots they favored. They would step on the lowest line to pin it to the ground, then use their neck to push up on the lines above – which would create a perfectly adequate gap to squeeze through.
As you can see, we added branches to try and discourage them, but they just knocked the branches out the way. The only thing that worked was to add 2 lines of barbed wire along these sections.
You might be wondering why we didn’t just add more lines and space them closer together…? Well, we started out with 5 lines like this:
However, the deer did not like this arrangement! One day my dogs were chasing a deer and it fixed eyes on me as it scooched under the fence, staring at me as it popped up the other side, “You see?? We don’t have time to jump over the fence when coyotes are chasing us!”
Someone had been chewing through the bottom strand of the Bayco elastic fencelines at key points where there were wildlife trails – hence my bottom, 5th line had disappeared in numerous places. In one forested section of the pasture, they had chewed through the bottom 2 lines. This didn’t create a problem with the horses, since there was no inducement for them to leave the pasture at that section – all that was on the other side were trees.
So when I placed the strands of barb wire on the fenceline in the photo above, I placed them as high as I possibly could, to leave the deer and other animals as much clearance as I could. I had thought this fencing material would be ideal to leave passage open to wildlife. But as the deer showed me, during a high speed chase, they have to be able to get through the fencing in a split second.
Here’s the other issue that occurs when using this tensioned elastic fence line, that no amount of bracing can fix. If your posts are too far out of alignment at any spot, the tension in the lines simply pops your staples out of the posts:
Not sure how this post got so far out of alignment with the others, but this is very rocky ground with buried boulders, so sometimes you just have to move the post to a new spot.
Then guess what the horses can do with a section of fence like this?
However, where this type of fencing is totally outstanding, is how it performs in heavily treed areas! This is where all that stretchy elastic really comes in handy:
Once we removed the tree, we simply tightened up the lines again and voila! Fence was fixed in 5 minutes flat.
Oh and I have one last point to make – although this would apply to any kind of strand fencing – is to consider where your blackberries are. I was staring at this part of the fenceline, wondering why the blackberries had gone hogwild in this section… when I realized that by putting the elastic fenceline there, I had built them a trellis! What do we know from tomatoes and peas? Yep, if you give them a scaffold, their growth will increase greatly due to increased sun exposure.
If I’d realized this, I wouldn’t have bothered hacking through the blackberries in this spot to place the posts here, I would have just moved the fenceline over. Or, known that I would have to be rigorous about keeping them cut back on a regular basis.
If I had domestic horses (with no escape artists in the bunch) and perfectly square or rectangular pastures, hard ground, and not much wildlife migration, then yes, this fencing is a good option. It is certainly way better for safety than high tensile steel wire. And for withstanding falling trees, you just can’t beat it!
I don’t like the fact that it is a plastic product – if I could ban plastics from the planet I would – so for me and my situation, there are not enough benefits to make up for the plastic pollution aspect.
I hope that round-up of fencing options has been helpful for you. I only use electric fencing when there’s no other option, or it’s only temporary, like when I’m regenerating pasture for a few months, so I haven’t gone into that option here. I don’t feel I have enough information on the effects of enclosed electrical loops on animals to make a choice about electric fencing as an option, or not. I don’t know how the currents travel through the air or through the ground. I do know (after having an engineer come and test my house) that it’s much healthier for me to unplug everything in my bedroom at night before sleep. But I haven’t seen any information on how electric fencing affects an animal’s electromagnetic field. If you know or have any links to data, please post them below!
Originally published May , updated March
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