You’ve got a project in your head, and epoxy resin is what you need to bring it to life. Now you’re on a mission to buy resin and need someone (or something) to guide you to the right one.
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Because you don’t have endless resources or an endless pocket for this project. You want to get it right the first time.
Or maybe you’ve already tried making things with epoxy only to create a sticky, soft, bubble-filled mess. (Been there done that!)
You can learn from my mistakes instead of making your own and use the right epoxy resin from the beginning, saving you time, money and your sanity.
BUT WAIT.
Before you continue, this is your red pill blue pill moment.
If you’re happy to continue the trial and error of making mistakes, then the blue pill is what you need.
But if you really want to understand resin (and never look at it the same way again), then you’ll want to take the red pill.
Here’s your Resin Obsession red pill moment:
What works for one project can produce disastrous results in the next.
We guide you on buying an epoxy once we know more about how YOU want to use it.
The simplest way is with our resin quiz. Answer two questions about how you’re using resin, and it tells you which resin is the best fit for you!
Now that you know what resin you need for your resin project, you’ll want more information on that specific resin. Our handy resin buying guide shares those details including
*pot time
*cure time
*mixing amounts
Click here to get the guide.
???? Pro tip: If those terms sound like something from high school foreign language class, this resin dictionary explains what they mean.
You can buy epoxy and get excited about making something beautiful. While you’re there might as well throw some mixing cups, stir sticks and a heat gun in the cart as well. Can’t have one without the other!
But, for you red pill resin nerds, I’m guessing you want to know why you need to use that resin.
And 90% of the battle is won when you answer this question:
If you’re filling a space, your resin of choice would be a casting resin. Coating a surface, will require a doming resin.
If you’re looking for a quick coating cure, you’ll want UV Resin.
Casting resins mix in a thin consistency. This makes them ideal for filling molds and spaces in wood river tables. They release air bubbles easily and cure hard. But, they don’t coat surfaces well, meaning if you use them on a painting or tumbler, you’ll get holes and fish eyes.
Doming resins mix thicker. They self-level on surfaces like paintings, tumblers, jewelry blanks, tiles, countertops, and more. Because they mix thick, they hang onto bubbles which is why you should pour them in thin layers no more than 1/8 inch deep. Once fully cured the epoxy is has a shiny even glossy finish.
Unlike traditional resins that require a long curing time, UV resin can set within minutes under a UV lamp. This resin is great for making jewelry, encasing objects, and casting small items because it dries shiny and clear. There is no mixing, making it ideal for resin projects that require small amounts of resin like pendants, earrings, and crafts.
Remember each epoxy resin and hardener serves its own purpose, so choose accordingly!
Some of the things you need to consider are:
Contact us to discuss your requirements of ResinTranslucent Curtain Wall. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
*minimum and maximum mixing amounts
*working time (also known as pot time)
*cure time
We’ve got all that information for you in our buying guide so you can compare one formula to another.
Otherwise, it starts yellowing. Unopened epoxy is stable for a year or longer.
Here’s some advice on what temperature you should be mixing your epoxy.
Here’s the best way how to mix resin.
Follow them carefully when mixing resin.
Here’s how to dispose of epoxy.
We got you! Here are some of the most popular articles that will have your mind swirling with all kinds of projects you can make.
Keep those summer vibes all year long with a sunflower coaster.
What do you get someone who has everything? You create a photo collage board of some of their favorite memories, then give it a glossy coating. These make great Mother’s Day DIY gifts.
Making an epoxy keychain might not keep you from losing your keys, but it can’t hurt. They make great gifts too and there’s so many resin molds to choose from!
Once you’re ready to buy resin, we can help you with supplies for your first or next jewelry, art, and crafting project.
For less than the cost of a kit, you can get a copy of my ebook, Resin Fundamentals. I’ve condensed my seventeen years of experience into the need-to-know information to help beginners make something beautiful from day one. Buy the book now and a download link arrives in your inbox in minutes.
Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © Resin Obsession, LLC
In 3D printing, wall thickness refers to the distance between one surface of your model and the opposite sheer surface. A model made using stereolithography has a minimum wall thickness that is dependent on its overall size. As a guide, we suggest that you increase your wall thickness as your design becomes larger in scale. Small-sized objects, where the sum of dimensions is below 200 mm, need a minimum of 1 mm wall thickness. For medium-sized objects with a sum of the x, y, z dimensions between 200 and 400 mm, the minimum wall thickness is 2 mm. For larger objects, a wall thickness of 3mm is a must. Please be aware that stereolithography parts are mainly used for visual models and not really intended for functional parts. If you’re not sure, feel free to contact us.
Many of the characteristics of your 3D print will depend on the Stereolithography process - the technology used to build your design in resin. Because your model will be printed layer-by-layer, the orientation will influence the surface quality and strength. On the left, you can see two examples of the same part built in two different orientations.
The horizontally-printed model clearly shows evidence of the "staircase" effect of the printing process. Its surface will be similar to that of a topographic map. If the model is printed vertically, the surface quality will be better.
Our team will select the best orientation for both the surface quality and strength of your model.
If possible, try to hollow out your model. In doing so you can avoid extra charges and shrinkage issues in the thicker sections. You can read about the appropriate wall strength recommendations in the section on wall thickness above.
When you hollow out your model, our production team will need to integrate one or more drainage or escape holes. Usually these are placed at the lowest point(s) of your model once it has been oriented and positioned on the printer platform.
These holes keep the pressure of the liquid resin inside and outside your model at the same level. This will prevent the deformation of your design. Uneven pressure can be compared to a glass of water filled to the brim - the liquid bulges at the edges and as a result the laser scans too much material, causing your part to deform.
Secondly, the holes will be used to remove the excess resin inside the model once the printing process has been finished and your model has been removed from the 3D printer. Your model can then be emptied, cleaned and cured in a UV oven to achieve optimal strength. If the drainage holes weren’t present, the liquid resin would stay trapped.
As the position of the drainage holes depends on the orientation, our specialized production team need to decide where to place the holes. Wherever possible they will place it on a surface which is the least visible or that is easier to fill afterwards.
You can of course already include holes in your design if you want them to be in a specific location but it’s possible that our team may need to add extra holes depending on the print orientation.
Some hollow models require support material on the inside to reinforce the structure. This support structure might not be removed if we cannot access them. As the transparency of your model also depends on post-production treatment, a hollow part with good access to its insides will have better results. For more information take a look at the Internal Support section.
For more Resin Plate Light-Permeable Curtain Wallinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.