Menards up here sell a lighter weight Durapanel for interior finishing. I've been in buildings that have it and looks fine to me.
I think the metal looks good. Don't hold the dust like osb. Instant gratification, no painting. The way I'm going.
I did it. I love it. One of the best shop build decisions I made. overhead screws were fun. I also used a sheetrock lift to put the panels up and insulated above to R-50 with cellulose.
The interior material is called liner panel.It works much better than sheetrock or OSB.No painting.Makes the interior much brighter and cleaner.
2X 3X 4X 5X
I used the mid-range Pro-Rib on the ceiling of our attached garage five years ago. Looks nice, but it was heavy. In the sf race shop I used the thinner Dura-Panels (both from Menards). Worked just fine.
One of the best decisions I made regarding my shop. Can't recommend it strongly enough. The carpenters that put it up thought it was really, really slick. If I built a new house and didn't need the fire shield of sheet rock, I would go with Dura-Panels.
My carpenters put screws in every four (4) feet! Not every two (2) feet. Almost half the screws used. Have R-40 of blown in fiberglass over half and R-30 batt in the other half.
I cannot think of any good reason to go with either of the two heavier panels than Dura-Panels. Ceiling lights are wired right through holes in fixtures and the Dura-Panels with a plastic grommet.
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I am seriously looking at this but haven't come up with a good way to cut in outlets. I want to mount outlet boxes for my lights and run the wiring in the attic. I would prefer flush mounted but could go with surface mount but don't know what electrical inspector would want where it comes through the metal from the attic. Has anyone done it either of these ways. Gman that is gorgeous and all the others inspiring.
Look up suppliers of "Metal building" in your area.
Not "Aluminum", all these panels are Steel, although often called "Aluminized" or
"Galvalume"
Steel panels will give you a super bright and dust repelling ceiling.
I think the BEST Shop ceiling finish.
And then, blow in insulation above after ceiling is sheathed.
SO easy.
And the steel will give you your Vapor Barrier if you are in a colder climate area.
And, also just fine in a hot climate.
Edit - now I look and see NC, will be good in any geo area.
Cool thing about using metal panel is - You can order them cut to length, and cause you can overlap them as much or little as you want to fit,(Well, infinitely lengthwise anyway) lots of otherwise cutting is eliminated.
Don't have to be concerned about limiting overlap compared to using on outside of building where you do.
And ABSOLUTELY get the lightest gauge you can find.
I encourage you to do the metal lightest gauge ceiling before any other type of finish.
Marc
I am seriously looking at this but haven't come up with a good way to cut in outlets. I want to mount outlet boxes for my lights and run the wiring in the attic. I would prefer flush mounted but could go with surface mount but don't know what electrical inspector would want where it comes through the metal from the attic. Has anyone done it either of these ways. Gman that is gorgeous and all the others inspiring.
NC - Surface mount steel boxes on the flats, between ribs , secure w short sheet metal screws.
Punch slightly oversized hole in metal panel to allow enough clearance for Romex connector or whatever you are doing.
Flush mounted pain in ass and totally unnecessary.
Should be totally normal and acceptable for Inspector, I was an EC for years, did that many times in different jurisdictions. Marc
Easiest overall method assuming ceiling still open - Steel not yet up - Run your romex, decide approx where you want your outlets, leave GENEROUS long tails hang in approx location, then use like a Greenlee like 1" knockout punch in the metal before you screw it to ceiling, hanging your PLENTY LONG romex tails already in place feed through holes you make as you hang your panels.
Now you have your ceiling covered w the steel sheets, w tails hanging down through holes sized to easily allow your cable connectors to pass through.
Then come back put on romex connectors like 6" below the steel, secure those to box, push excess wire into ceiling, put box to ceiling and secure box.
Done.
No flying metal chips into your your eyes drilling after installed... and then what? fishing wire later??
When terminating wiring, punch a hole w an Awl to make clearance for your Ground screw, or use Ground Clips.
Done all the time like that. Marc
I am seriously looking at this but haven't come up with a good way to cut in outlets. I want to mount outlet boxes for my lights and run the wiring in the attic. I would prefer flush mounted but could go with surface mount but don't know what electrical inspector would want where it comes through the metal from the attic. Has anyone done it either of these ways. Gman that is gorgeous and all the others inspiring.
I would think once you know where you outlets will be you could use a zip tool or one of those oscillating tool and maybe just tin snips..